Thursday, 2 July 2015

Day 41: Rawlinna to Cocklebiddy

What a difference a day makes...

A chilly night meant an early start. Last night it was too cold to stay up, so I retreated to my swag. I was warm enough, but the inside of the swag was rather cold when I woke at 5am. So I made the difficult decision to stay put, rolled over and dozed until 6.

Once I finally steeled myself to the inevitability that I had to get up, it was just starting to become a beautiful dawn. Yes, I know "Red sky in the morning, shepherds warning", but sunset was beautiful as well. So do they cancel each other out to make an OK day?
Early morning sunshine at camp

If you read yesterdays blog, you'll remmeber I said the track was getting worse as I approached Rawlinna? Well I was still 23km north, and the Station owners had told me the track south was more of the same. Allow 4 or 5 hours they said... And they weren't kidding! It took me 7 hours to cover about 120km, and I didn't loiter in Rawlinna this time. I was also mindful of he warnings printed on the maps about the number of station tracks criss-crossing mine, so I zoomed in on the Hema App to give me a metre scale, verified the map to recent vehicle marks, and didn't take a wrong turn! Very happy with that.

Just as I was leaving Rawlinna, one of the trains came through. The size of these things is amazing. You can't help but pause and watch.
A flying visit through Rawlinna township

While there are a lot of station tracks, these signs help keep you pointed in the right direction

The rough, stony tracks continue...

Finally, the track started to ease off as I approached Arubiddy and became wide and smooth so that the last 45km was covered at about 60km/h.
Open tracks again. Bliss!

At last, Cocklebiddy! The allure of flushing toilets and hot showers is tangible, but mixed with the sadness that the desert tracks part of the trip is over. For a while I did consider the track along the coast to Esperance, but the forecast says there's some bad weather coming through. Plus after nearly 6 weeks, I've done what I planned to do, so it's time to go home. But not by the most direct route... I was looking at the map a few days ago and decided that if I just head to Esperance, then along the coast to Denmark, then home, I'll have done a lap of the State. It would be a shame not to... It's only another couple of days (and not in a swag!)...

Day 40: Point Lillian to Rawlinna

An unexpected bonus. I think…

Slept like a log last night. Was so warm and cosy in swag that at some stage I had to unzip the sleeping bag. That lasted until the usual temperature drop at 4am, but I quickly went back to sleep until 6:15.. Not bad for going to sleep at 8:30…

So the day was off to a good start, but I knew the first 100km or so was just driving to Neale Corner with no side tracks to break up the trip. My day got better! The track was even better than yesterday with only a few washouts, minor corrugations and a few dunes to cross. Then as I crossed into Neale Junction Reserve, the track changed again. It suddenly opened up and became, dare I say it, maintained..? In a lot of places it was a better surface than many roads in Perth. Beautifully smooth. So my speed increased and I was at the Junction far earlier than I thought I would be.

Entering Neale Junction Reserve. Just look at that track..!

Neale Junction where the Connie Sue meets the Anne Beadell. Visitors book has several entries every day

The fabulous open, smooth track continued after Neale Junction, and I found myself wondering what the track to Neale Breakaways would be like. The reality is it was nearly as good, and what a destination. Absolutely beautiful! Soft, white mud/clays overlain by red sandstone. You can also see that the water draining from the clays is very saline as it forms amazing, intricate patterns as the water evaporates. Almost like the calcium carbonate in limestone caves. While it’s a truly wonderful scene, when you look closely you realise how fragile it is, yet the track in is outside the Reserve? Strange it is not afforded the same protection as the bushland a couple of kilometres away.
Neale Breakaways

Amazing colours in the sediments

Back to the Connie Sue and the smooth track continued, so I made the most of it and pushed on. When I woke this morning, I was expecting to be camping somewhere about 200km north of Rawlinna, the maybe another night just south of it before I made the push for Cocklebiddy. Nope. Tonight I’m camped about 15km north of Rawlinna, But there are a couple of points here… About 100km north of Rawlinna, the Connie Sue leaves the lovely open tracks and becomes ungraded, single lane track again. It also becomes progressively stonier. Just after the track split, my speed dropped to around 50km/h average. By the time I got to 40km north, it had dropped to 30km/h occasionally… but by this time I had the bit between my teeth. I knew there was mobile signal at Rawlinna and wanted to be able to at least make a phone call, so I pushed on. So yet again, I arrive at camp near Rawlinna under spotlights… but Telstra is here, even if only one bar.


So tomorrow is not going to be as big a day as I thought, but it will be slow going. It also means this might be my last night in the swag which is a bit sad as it means the trip is nearly over. The might part of this statement comes from an unknown, ie how much Cocklebiddy will try to sting me for a campsite. They don’t have a lot of competition…

Day 39: Warburton to Point Lillian

A day for concentrating

Not a great night’s sleep. Between being woken by a Chinese family arriving in the campsite at 10pm, parking next to me the talking loudly to each other (yes there were comments made), then waking up early, looking at the time on the iPhone and going to get up before realising the autocorrect on the iPhone had changed the time to Central Australian Time (ie an hour and a half ahead)…Grr… But by then I could only lightly doze until 6am (proper time). So I was packed and ready to leave pretty early. In anticipation of a long day I made myself slow down, and take on extra caffeine.
A setup to give me privacy

So today is the start of the Connie Sue. The longest leg of the trip at about 850km in total to get to Cocklebiddy. All on dirt. No fuel or roadhouses en route. Since the reviews say that not many people travel on it, I hope it’s an easy road in the way the Gary was. 800km of Gunbarrel corrugations doesn’t bear thinking about…

The entry point to the Connie Sue from the Great Central. That barrel and half tyre are the marker...

Wow. What a start. Soft sandy tracks running beside and over dunes. Not too badly corrugated and only a few washouts or calcrete ridges. I’ve decided that while I need to press on with the journey, I will take some of the smaller side tracks. With the two jerry cans on the roof I should have more than enough fuel.
Open tracks in good condition and small corrugations. How different to the Gunbarrel...

First stop was Mackenzie Gorge. Unlike the Kimberley where you walk into the gorge, these are more like breakaways where you park on top. Mackezie gives you a great view to the West.
Unfortunately, after Mackenzie, the road becomes a lot more corrugated, plus gravel, plus more washaways. Not continuously, but enough to keep you concentrating between the faster bits, and meqan the faster bits aren’t as fast as they could be as yo know that next obstacle is waiting for you to not be paying attention… According to a guy I met and chatted to, this is going to continue until Neale Junction. Oh joy.
Mackenzie Gorge

Unfortunately, not all the side trips were as worthwhile. Harkness Gorge wasn’t particularly stunning, although it might have been to the person that first saw it. Waterfall gorge is a 1 and a bit kilometre walk from where the track ends, with no path to it. File under “maybe next time…”.  Couldn’t find Henning Tank, and Woods Pass, while it does take you past a great view, the track just ends about a kilometre later for no apparent reason. Apparently Wood will not pass this way if he were  to try again!

On the upside, while Sykes Bluff is a great campsite, I was more impressed by the airstrip. A bit overgrown now, but still in good condition. I drove alongside it for over 500m. I wonder why it was built? There aren't any communities or stations in the area. Maybe it was to service the exploration that happened in the area? Also, Coopers Hill Bore now has a tank and solar pump so fresh water is easily available.
Sykes Bluff airstrip. No idea why this is there...

Finally, towards the end of the day I dropped in to Point Sandercock and Point Lillian. Both fabulously lit in the late afternoon sunshine, but while Sandercock was a fairly open campsite, I’ve managed to find a small spot at Lillian with breakaways on 3 sides. According to one of the track reports I read, there is some good rock art here. As there are a lot of places it could be, I won’t have time to look in the morning, but it’s worth remembering for next time.


It’s also strange that while I struggled with the isolation on the Gary, here I feel fine. I think that night in Comms range in Warburton helped, and mentally I know that it was 3 days home from Warburton by the quick route, or 6 via Connie Sue (and only 3 or 4 in the swag). Either way, I'm on my way home at last…

Day 38: Gunbarrel to Warburton

A mercifully short day

Since I did a lot of the hard yards yesterday on the Gunbarrel, I knew it was only a short hop into Warburton today. I also knew from talking to the guys on motorbikes that the first section was very corrugated and sandy, then when I got onto the Heather, the bad corrugations would continue for the first 30 or so kilometres, then it would become smooth highway. So before we went our separate ways, I took their rubbish for them (for which they were really glad). No skin off my nose and it will make their lives easier.

The end of the Gunbarrel, but not the corugations.


Their info (unsurprisingly) panned out really well. A bit of soft sand going over the dunes, and lots of corrugations where they and the map said they’d be. What I wasn’t expecting were some of the views from the Heather Highway. For a while you run along a ridgeline which gives awesome views of the run into Warburton. Then you get onto the smooth section which is where the Heather forms part of the road into Tjukarli community, hence it’s really good.
Open, smooth track on the Heather along the ridge of a stabilised dune

Next surprise came when I got to the Great Central… Tarmac! It stared about 300m before my junction and ran until about 8km from Warburton. Why would you tarmac that section and not all the way in to Warburton? On the face of it, it makes no sense at all. Although the Shire and Main roads might disagree…
Off the Heather and back to my old friend, the Great Central, to find...

... tarmac. Noooo!


Rest of the day was just normal stuff. Washing clothes, and revelling in a hot shower and flushing toilets. Tried to upload all my outstanding blogs, but the 3G internet really slowed down from 4pm for the rest of the day. Bah! Oh well, Cocklebiddy will be busy…

Day 37: Gary Highway to Gunbarrel Hwy (20km E of Mt Beadell)

A day of changes

It turns out my camping spot last night (about 10km north of the junction with the Eagle Hwy) coincided with a change in the track conditions and landscape. It turned from open desert with some washaways and few corrugations, to more corrugations and exposed rcky sections where top cover has been eroded. But not too many and progress was still pretty good. Met a couple from NSW as I approached the junction with the Gunbarrel who were on their way to Broome. Apparently they have done the Gunbarrel 5 times, and this will be their time time on the Gary. Stopped for a while as I passed Lake Cohen as there ‘s still a small amount of water in it which is attracting some birdlife. Unfortunately I didn’t see anything as I passed the Giles Crossing point. Then you cross the Young Range and you’re on the Gunbarrel…
Lake Cohen

About to cross the Young Ranges
Goodbye to Gary while looking down a Gunbarrel...

The Gunbarrel is a different kettle of fish to the Gary. For a start, the visitors book at the junction said I was only the second person TODAY to sign it. June filled the previous 2 pages… Bit of a difference. He track itself shows the wear from the extra traffic. Lots more large corrugations and massive washouts. Even the go-arounds have go-arounds! Needless to say, progress was a lot slower. Down to less than 20km/h in places, and sometimes even that was too fast as a moments inattention saw me arriving at another washout or rock step and having to brake sharply to scrub speed before I hit it.

Having said that, there are some great vantage points to climb. I climbed Mt Everard and Mt Beadell and the views are fabulous. Since it was only 3pm I drove past a couple of nice looking camp spots and have ended up at a water bore. A bit more exposed than I’d like, but the car makes a half decent wind break, and it does mean that Warburton is less than 120km away. But the map says that all the tracks to there are very corrugated. The fact that it warrants a special mention, and the rest of today doesn’t, has me a little worried… I’d just got here and was setting up camp when a couple of guys arrived on motorbikes. I a camping area a couple hundred metres across, where do you reckon they stopped? Yep, within 30m of me… While part of me is growling, another part welcomes the company. As an update to this they were good blokes and the company was definitely appreciated.

View from Mt Everard
Mt Everard and Mt Gordon
A replica of Len Beadell's theodolite, forever surveying the Gunbarrel